Tuesday, November 23, 2010
School was better today. I did yoga before heading in which helped (I just found out one of my cats died yesterday so I needed some extra down time; sad to lose her, she's been with me through a lot in this past decade. I will miss her and her quirky, adventurous personality). The kids sure enjoy my antics and acting out things (like a stomach churning or an anus ejecting waste...that sort of thing) to help with the ESL factor.
It is strange being here with “bodyguards”. I am such a private person and here I am hovered over (in a caring way) so that I don’t ever venture off on my own and, when at home, I have all the doors locked but the one to which I am nearest, and have the school custodian close by. There is always someone not far from the house (or with me in the house) and they “trade off” from day to night. I feel protected but I also have a strange sense of claustrophobia almost. I do think about when I get home, going for a nice long walk (or maybe snowshoe by that time) in the quiet solitude of the woods. I took Abaa’s bike the other afternoon to return a Guinness bottle (Kumasi has its own Guinness and Kilkenny brewery here, so I had to try some; available from a roadside stall just down the hill; it was putrid unfortunately) and Julianna was a little concerned I was out on my own. I gather this is because white means “money” here (if they only knew). It felt liberating to be out on my own, saying hello to passersby and kids, surprised to see the Abruni biking by; everyone was warm and friendly and I did not feel in the least bit threatened (Mom, are you reading this?) . The road is an uncomfortable ride in a car, but, man, is it fun on a bike!
Yesterday I heard noises coming from behind the house and discovered and skinny jittery little dog and a small pup going through my household garbage (remember it is put in a hole until it is “dry” and then it is burned?). My heart went out to them. There are, thankfully, no stray cats about like I remember in Argentina, but, there certainly are quite a few dogs. At night you can sometimes hear their plaintive howling as they communicate, (reminiscent of the north) to each other, from their staked territories.
I am feeling so thankful for the opportunity to have come here, but do wonder how much of a difference my visit is making. I have been able to fill in for the missing French teacher, yes, but only temporarily. There is definitely a misconception, with children and adults alike that I am wealthy and can donate all sorts of money and resources, just because I am white. It is a surprise when it is understood that this is it: I am here to give of my time and I have donated all the educational supplies I personally could afford. I know Fei’s hope is that I serve as a conduit for other volunteers as well as for information for others who wish to support an international community project where they know how their money is being used. I do hope this is the case and I can effectively facilitate future support. I have also been asked, by several people, even by the primary school headmaster, if I would write a letter of invitation for them to come to Canada. That is what was done for me to come here, so I cannot be closed to the option, but it feels odd to be approached, knowing that I am seen for what I represent, a “meal-ticket”, money, whatever…it’s not unexpected for sure, but still an interesting, sometimes uncomfortable feeling, especially knowing that, although I come from a privileged country, I, myself am not and, basically, what you see is what you get!
A few last notes: The school has purchased a small freezer, as a way to buy in bulk and lower food costs. Fei and Julianna are pleased by how much this saves them, allowing them to use this money for other uses. They try to generate their own funds as much as possible, to sustain their own operations, from the sale of water and school tuition, but they are still relying on outside support (at this point, their UK counterparts of Adumasa Charity, who built the school and well in the first place) to fund the development projects (i.e. buildings, resources, equipment).
About the food here: The people here eat, due to circumstance and availability, largely “close to the source” which feels wonderful. The fruits and vegetables either come right from their backyard or the market (someone else’s backyard or a farm not too far away; except beef which is trucked in ALIVE from Burkina Faso to the north). Like I have mentioned, the main dishes are a spiced sauce (usually tomatoe based) with fish and/or meat that is served with a ground root or mais, along with vegetables, so it keeps it pretty simple.
I just learned something that would be one of the first things I would tell a traveler here: it is a sign of disrespect to use your left hand in greeting someone. When I was waiting for the “trotro” to take us to the church reunion Sunday , a little girl reached out to me with her left hand and was tersely told off by her Ama (mother). The “no left hand rule” was explained to me. I am sure I have been unknowingly showing disrespect to many people since my arrival here (“uncivilized foreigner”, they probably thought). Oops.
Last note: it is wonderful to experience the individual “shining stars”, you know, the ones with extra focus, extra enthusiasm, sometimes a certain gentleness or keen curiosity? There a few in each of my classes as well as two I do not teach. I have already mentioned Samuel Appiah, who is 21, working for Fei to pay for tuition, living at the school, trying to complete his senior High School. For him, I wonder if a homeschooling program wouldn’t be the answer. He is frustrated by the disorganized system (their teacher is often late, coming from the University and there aren’t enough grade 10s for their own teacher so they are with the grade 11s and feel they are not being taught). He has such drive and a keen mind, it seems that a distance learning or homeschooling program would be a terrific option. I don’t know enough about it, but will look into it.
The other “bright star” I do not teach, is the brother of Abigail, the grade 5 student who asked me to be her penpal on one of my first days here. She comes regularly to visit, with a friend and her younger brother Joel, who is such a spark. This is the boy who recognized the picture of one of the Charity founder’s pictures on the wall of the guest house the first day, saying that he has been his friend. I can see why they connected. Joel is going to a school in another village, is already learning French and will translate into English for his sister or friend when we are trying to communicate. He is all over the maps on my walls when he comes. He is a talented athlete and is even a good little artist (they were drawing when they came over last). It seems like this guy, with the “light always on behind his eyes”, if given the chance, could do whatever his little heart was set on. I do hope he has the support he needs to achieve. It was so touching, the other night they were here while I was working on lessons and tests in French and I was asking him the words he has learned so far (to use in my basic vocabulary list for the beginner class). I didn’t think he really understood what I was trying to do, but the next night he comes over with his French book to lend me! He was wearing, believe it or not, motocross pants (in this heat), the other night, given to him by his uncle, so I pulled out the computer and showed him motocross pictures; he was absolutely enthralled.
Vocab:
Who hoto sen? How are you?
Nyame adom me hoy ye, won nso? By the grace of God I am well, and you?
Me dinde: My name is…
Ye fre me…they call me
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