Appiah family gathering, hospital visit and varia

Wednesday, December 01, 2010

Happy December! It is so funny to see Christmas decorations in some places. I had forgotten it was the holiday season, with the arid desert landscape, 30+ heat, and not so much as a drop of rain for over a week. Fei doesn’t think the dry season has started yet, based on the somewhat cooler, humid air in the evenings, but the increasing heat during the day and this perpetual lack of rain (with unbelievable red earth dust kicked up constantly- my wash water at the end of day is red, even if the clothes looked clean). 

I never did finish reviewing the day on Saturday. I ended up leaving Kumasi High with Julianna and her gangly 15 year old son who attends there (Nana- grade 9). He has been suffering from malaria the past 2 weekends. We brought him to the hospital so he could get medication (he opted for an injection rather than daily pills as he has difficulty swallowing pills apparently). It was very much like going to emergency at one of our hospitals. It took a long time as there was only one doctor on (and, I assume, one on call) and, of course, more severe cases are treated first (as in the road accident victims who were brought or walked in about an hour after we arrived). Nana was seen after about 5 hours and given his injection shortly after that.  They do have private hospitals here as well, for those who want faster service, but it does sound like the public system is well equipped with qualified staff, in the larger urban centres. The issue here are the remote rural villages. I asked Fei about shamans (“witch doctors”) and it seems they are not common in the larger centres, as people here choose the conventional medicine (they do believe in herbal medicines as many of us in the western world do, but in moderation). In the more traditional, what Fei would call “fetish” religious communities, in the small, out-of-the-way villages, (those not converted to Christianity or Islam) they still function as the town doctor as well as, I assume, an overall advisor on spiritual matters. I gather these are the communities where witches are still beaten and banished based on the final flailings of sacrificed chickens (how they land determines the women’s innocence). To read about witch camps (I gather these are in the north), see: http://www.calgaryherald.com/health/African+witches+banished+into+isolated+camps/3749285/story.html

I met a young woman (34 I think she said she was) waiting for her friend at the hospital. She was anxious to talk to me it seemed. Her English was very good. She had befriended another white volunteer years ago (Dutch woman, working for an Aids Awareness organization) and had lost touch. She seemed hungry for the “outside world” connection and had the yearning to broaden her scope of awareness, is the only way I can think to put it (she had to quit school and support her siblings’ education after grade 9, yet, still wanted to learn. I told her, that she could continue to learn on her own anyway, not needing formal education, but by going to the library, reading about what she was interested in etc.. This seemed like a revelation to her).  We exchanged contact information. 

Sunday I went with Fei to his church, Ramseyer Presbyterian, which is another world to the local Adumasa canteen/church space at the school. I was, as per usual, on this visit, put in a place of honour, with the high officials of the church organization, right behind the pastor, up at the front. I was also part of the official group who shook the hands of the newly ordained pastor (and his wife), following his vows!  I have to say, it has been a while since I’ve been to church at home, but, man, can these ministers TALK! Fei (or Julianna) translate for me every once and a while and say in a few seconds what it has taken the pastor to say in 15 minutes!

We went from there to Fei’s home (the first time I’d been). His wife, Agnes, came back with us from church (she is in the choir) and then she promptly disappeared in the kitchen. It was strange. I was introduced to their daughter of 20-something years (in University studying Social Sciences and French) yet she and her mother made themselves scarce, and didn’t even eat with us. Charles, the past president of the rotary, told me that here women are powerless and are subordinate to the men in the household.  Even in this more progressive home it seemed to be the case. I also found it odd that I was not shown around the home or even invited in. I asked to go in to use the washroom and, only then, could look inside. It had a television, modern toilet facilities, and the like, but still gave the air of a household making ends meet to a certain degree. The only person who joined us at lunch was their daughter-in-law (again, twenty-something I think), who held an ear bud to her ear, listening to music from her radio the whole time (they are the rage here for most teens, as are listening to cell phones with a music memory card; just like Ipods are popular back home, also available here, but just not an option for any but the most wealthy).

I felt badly putting Agnes out like that, she prepared 3 common Ghanaian fare dishes for us: tomato rice with meat, salad, with egg and sardines and, fish (heads- lots of bones and a stretch for me) with tomato/pepper chutney.  Before we left I took some pictures of the family. One of their sons, Christian, aptly named as he is a minister, arrived and we snapped some photos. It turned out that Agnes’ sister was also there and a family friend.  His young 8 month-old daughter was the first Ghanaian baby I have been able to play with and not make cry! 

The link to these pictures is: http://picasaweb.google.com/kpedicelli/Ghana20101128?feat=directlink