Bikes, bodyguards, beer and bright stars...

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

School was better today. I did yoga before heading in which helped (I just found out one of my cats died yesterday so I needed some extra down time; sad to lose her, she's been with me through a lot in this past decade. I will miss her and her quirky, adventurous personality). The kids sure enjoy my antics and acting out things (like a stomach churning or an anus ejecting waste...that sort of thing) to help with the ESL factor.

It is strange being here with “bodyguards”. I am such a private person and here I am hovered over (in a caring way) so that I don’t ever venture off on my own and, when at home, I have all the doors locked but the one to which I am nearest, and have the school custodian close by. There is always someone not far from the house (or with me in the house) and they “trade off” from day to night.  I feel protected but I also have a strange sense of claustrophobia almost. I do think about when I get home, going for a nice long walk (or maybe snowshoe by that time) in the quiet solitude of the woods. I took Abaa’s bike the other afternoon to return a Guinness bottle (Kumasi has its own Guinness and Kilkenny brewery here, so I had to try some; available from a roadside stall just down the hill; it was putrid unfortunately) and Julianna was a little concerned I was out on my own. I gather this is because white means “money” here (if they only knew). It felt liberating to be out on my own, saying hello to passersby and kids, surprised to see the Abruni biking by; everyone was warm and friendly and I did not feel in the least bit threatened (Mom, are you reading this?) . The road is an uncomfortable ride in a car, but, man, is it fun on a bike!

Yesterday I heard noises coming from behind the house and discovered and skinny jittery little dog and a small pup going through my household garbage (remember it is put in a hole until it is “dry” and then it is burned?). My heart went out to them. There are, thankfully, no stray cats about like I remember in Argentina, but, there certainly are quite a few dogs. At night you can sometimes hear their plaintive howling as they communicate, (reminiscent of the north) to each other, from their staked territories.

I am feeling so thankful for the opportunity to have come here, but do wonder how much of a difference my visit is making. I have been able to fill in for the missing French teacher, yes, but only temporarily. There is definitely a misconception, with children and adults alike that I am wealthy and can donate all sorts of money and resources, just because I am white. It is a surprise when it is understood that this is it: I am here to give of my time and I have donated all the educational supplies I personally could afford. I know Fei’s hope is that I serve as a conduit for other volunteers as well as for information for others who wish to support an international community project where they know how their money is being used.  I do hope this is the case and I can effectively facilitate future support. I have also been asked, by several people, even by the primary school headmaster, if I would write a letter of invitation for them to come to Canada. That is what was done for me to come here, so I cannot be closed to the option, but it feels odd to be approached, knowing that I am seen for what I represent, a “meal-ticket”, money, whatever…it’s not unexpected for sure, but still an interesting, sometimes uncomfortable feeling, especially knowing that, although I come from a privileged country, I, myself am not and, basically, what you see is what you get!

A few last notes: The school has purchased a small freezer, as a way to buy in bulk and lower food costs. Fei and Julianna are pleased by how much this saves them, allowing them to use this money for other uses. They try to generate their own funds as much as possible, to sustain their own operations, from the sale of water and school tuition, but they are still relying on outside support (at this point, their UK counterparts of Adumasa Charity, who built the school and well in the first place) to fund the development projects (i.e. buildings, resources, equipment).

About the food here: The people here eat, due to circumstance and availability, largely “close to the source” which feels wonderful. The fruits and vegetables either come right from their backyard or the market (someone else’s backyard or a farm not too far away; except beef which is trucked in ALIVE from Burkina Faso to the north). Like I have mentioned, the main dishes are a spiced sauce (usually tomatoe based) with fish and/or meat that is served with a ground root or mais, along with vegetables, so it keeps it pretty simple.  

I just learned something that would be one of the first things I would tell a traveler here: it is a sign of disrespect to use your left hand in greeting someone. When I was waiting for the “trotro” to take us to the church reunion Sunday , a little girl reached out to me with her left hand and was tersely told off by her Ama (mother). The “no left hand rule” was explained to me. I am sure I have been unknowingly showing disrespect to many people since my arrival here (“uncivilized foreigner”, they probably thought). Oops.

Last note: it is wonderful to experience the individual “shining stars”, you know, the ones with extra focus, extra enthusiasm, sometimes a certain gentleness or keen curiosity? There a few in each of my classes as well as two I do not teach. I have already mentioned Samuel Appiah, who is 21, working for Fei to pay for tuition, living at the school, trying to complete his senior High School.  For him, I wonder if a homeschooling program wouldn’t be the answer. He is frustrated by the disorganized system (their teacher is often late, coming from the University and there aren’t enough grade 10s for their own teacher so they are with the grade 11s and feel they are not being taught). He has such drive and a keen mind, it seems that a distance learning or homeschooling program would be a terrific option. I don’t know enough about it, but will look into it. 

The other “bright star” I do not teach, is the brother of Abigail, the grade 5 student who asked me to be her penpal on one of my first days here. She comes regularly to visit, with a friend and her younger brother Joel, who is such a spark. This is the boy who recognized the picture of one of the Charity founder’s pictures on the wall of the guest house the first day, saying that he has been his friend. I can see why they connected. Joel is going to a school in another village, is already learning French and will translate into English for his sister or friend when we are trying to communicate. He is all over the maps on my walls when he comes. He is a talented athlete and is even a good little artist (they were drawing when they came over last). It seems like this guy, with the “light always on behind his eyes”, if given the chance, could do whatever his little heart was set on. I do hope he has the support he needs to achieve. It was so touching, the other night they were here while I was working on lessons and tests in French and I was asking him the words he has learned so far (to use in my basic vocabulary list for the beginner class). I didn’t think he really understood what I was trying to do, but the next night he comes over with his French book to lend me! He was wearing, believe it or not, motocross pants (in this heat), the other night, given to him by his uncle, so I pulled out the computer and showed him motocross pictures; he was absolutely enthralled.

Vocab:

Who hoto sen? How are you?

Nyame adom me hoy ye, won nso? By the grace of God I am well, and you?

Me dinde: My name is…

Ye fre me…they call me

Primary School Bedlam

 

The Bedaase community well

Sunday School

Monday, November 22, 2010

It was a hard day today. I felt overwhelmed. It was bedlam at the school. First, the teacher was not there, who was to be teaching a double period following my class, which I only found out when I went to ask where she was, from another teacher (I think this has happened every days since I began here). Then, when I was to sit in on a grade 4 science lesson, the teachers had an impromptu meeting and I was left attempting to teach (I figured I might as well use the time constructively) the grade 5s, with the other 120 or so supervisor-less unruly, hyper Ghanaian primary students running around, sticking their heads in, yelling into the open windows and doors as they ran by (or through), running through the class, scuffles at desks over pencils, or those wanting to hear, yelling at others to be quiet. It is in these circumstances that being a foreigner of another language, does not help. I don’t hold a lot of perceived power and the language barrier makes it difficult, especially as children see it as fodder for teasing, giggling, mimicking etc.. all good fun, but tiring at times, especially when attempting to maintain some semblance of control. I did consider using the switch stick the other teachers use. I may resort to it before the end is up!

On the bright side, I was amazed, however, how the older students from the earlier class came in to help out and how learning did happen; the kids all had the digestive system (what I’m teaching) all drawn (and some even coloured with the crayons I had given the primary school) and labeled. It was amazing to the seriousness of many of the students, amid the bedlum, bearing down to “get ‘er done”. One small boy, who seems to have a slight disability with one eye (slightly closed) was using a stub of a pencil and so focused on doing his drawing (he was very artistic) that today I snuck him a colourful new one.  I struggled with what to do with students who do not have pencils as, when this happened in the earlier class, I began giving out pencils and then it seemed as the entire class wanted one, being swarmed by the “gimme” hands that are all too common with packs of children in situations of need, being faced with a free “hand out”. I figure there had to be better way. I have left all but one pack to the headmaster and mistress to give out as they see fit.

The last class was much calmer, with my grade 9 students. I did end up leading them in Gentille Alouette as the class after French was Music and Dance yet that teacher has “gone traveling”, just like the French teacher… aha.

So, a system (I this case, Ghanaian education), stressed to its gills in the best of circumstances, in its rural, more adverse circumstances, shows itself as precarious and tenuous. When I look over the notes in the exercise books of some students, I see that they are writing down, word-for-word a text that is far beyond their language skills; often reading like a textbook itself. Their oral English language skills aren’t being developed adequately in classes of this size (and working with teachers with tenuous English language skills at best) yet, somehow, the curriculum has to be followed, so here is the dilemma.

On the topic of speaking English, it was funny, this morning, the primary English teacher came by to speak to the students about being respectful and to listen intently as my English was not clear and difficult for them to understand (“NOT clear?”  I thought, feeling slightly offended until I thought about it).  I can’t understand the English radio station I receive every so often here because of their muffled, thick accents and odd pronunciations, yet it is obviously easier for Ghanaians to understand their own accented English then mine.

Sunday was another busy day of church going, but this time, it was outdoors and a gathering of several different congregations, speeches, a choir, a band, and all. It was in Bedaase, a much more remote village than Adumasa, where I am. It is quite a long, narrow, winding, potholed (dry rain puddles actually, from the last of the wet season downpours) dirt road to get there. It is another one of the villages the Adumasa Link Charity (UK founded with Fei as the local coordinator) funded a school and well for (as was Adumasa). It is amazing to see how it changes a community.

I spoke to a woman and told her how beautiful it was there (much more wild and fertile green than where I am) and she was surprised, saying that that was not how she saw it. I guess if you struggle with the harshness of reality, it is hard to see the beauty.

The link to the Bedaase pictures:http://picasaweb.google.com/kpedicelli/ChurchReunionDay?feat=directlink

Corporal punishment

Few interesting tidbits came out tonight as Julianna and I were talking over her cooking lesson (she showed me how to make Palm Nut Soup- can be served with ground maize (Ken Key) or ground cassava, yam and plantain, as with all their "soups"...ground flour of the root of their hardy native plants pounded into a dough which is then boiled and served in any of these relatively spicy nut paste based sauces with a meat of some kind). No wonder the students here are so respectful of the teachers and pay such rapt attention in class; they get caned if they don't!

I asked Julianna what the protocol was for students who did not complete their homework and she told me that besides keeping them in over recess or lunch break (a usual one for North America), I could have them kneel for the time it takes the rest of the class to go over the assignment, or to cane them. It is a good thing I am not here for too long. The students will quickly realize that my strategies are a little "soft" compared to those of their usual teachers!

We also spoke about the issues of allergies and learning disorders. Julianna visited the "sister" school in the UK on a teacher exchange. She was astounded by the number of children with learning disabilities as well as allergies, saying that learning dysfunction is infrequent here (in classes of 65-70 students, how could you begin to manage our ratios?) from her experience and that allergies are just non existent. I am only quoting one source here (one with 35 years teaching mind you), and realize that there must be many students who just fall through the proverbial cracks, but it makes you think, especially about the allergies, if we have become such a clean society that our children's bodies come into the world with weaker immune systems and predispositions to environmental sensitivity. I even notice the difference in their nursery school children; they are all running around with a sense of independence and physical toughness we are just not accustomed to seeing in our children of that age.

I spent the entire day, after sleeping in (can't sleep in too late or it's becomes like trying to sleep in a tent in the direct sunlight- an easy-bake oven), lesson planning for the 2 week mad dash before exams; trying to make some headway with my French classes who seem to struggle with the very basics and how to create science (human anatomy- body system no less) lessons for grades 5 and 6 who can barely speak English. I also had to shake myself in realizing that I can't create tests like I normally would (i.e. label the diagram etc...) because I can't print them (no printer here and besides, would they anyway, for classes of 60+ kids in this economy?). I will have to write out all the questions (and draw my diagrams) on the board and the students write the answers in their exercise books (how one prevents cheating in such a crammed class, with some students sitting 3 to a desk, is beyond me).
Another discussion topic: buying property and building houses. I had noticed that there are so so many unfinished houses everywhere and asked why. It seems that property is cheap ($2500 for an acre or $4000 Ghanaian cedis) if you aren't looking at buying in the major centres. The most people can borrow for a loan is about $5000, so they borrow the money, buy the land, then slowly pay back the loan over, say 2 years, then get another, start the building of the house until the money runs out, pay that off over another 2 years and so on... and WE think building a house takes a long time!
Off to bed. Church tomorrow. It's a big "to do" with an anniversary celebration of some sort at the main Presbyterian Church in Kumasi hosting all the local churches... I feel like I am repeating myself. I probably already mentioned this. I am not certain if the service will be done in Twi only or have some English but I do hope it is not too hot and I can stay awake, considering it will be a long one I'm sure (like I've said before, they don't rush much here).

Link to photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/kpedicelli/CookingLessonsWithJulianna?feat=directlink

Snake in the Grass

Saturday, November 20, 2010

I’m set up at the desk at the guest house. Prince brought me a radio the first day I was here so I can listen to local stations. I have reggae rap playing now with the interesting lyrics “cleanliness if next to godliness..when judgment comes, where you gonna run?”.Yikes!

I was thinking this morning as I was cutting up a fresh pineapple we bought at the market yesterday, how the students really respond to praise for work well done and, I gather, this comes from, or part of the atmosphere of the class. The teachers are fairly gruff, even in their praise, which is hard won.  It is interesting to see the characters of the students and see that teenager behavior is universal as are class characters. There are always the keeners, always ready with an answer, helpful to the teachers, often being the class prefect, (here they seem to be respected, unlike some schools back home where it isn’t cool to be keen); there are the jokers, who gain their respect through being goofy; those who lack initiative and need to be told to write notes down or pulled out to participate; the students who don’t do their homework, forget it etc.. ; and the kids who try so hard, not afraid to ask many questions and those who are shy and ask for help from their friends, while others seem to function in isolation…. It is interesting to watch the characters clarify themselves and to be able to adjust, as much as possible with such a large class, to the different characters, in my teaching and class management.

Abaa (day school custodian and groundskeeper) had something to show me this morning when I awoke. He has been working on cutting the grass of the guest house with a machete for the past week. It is hard going, with very thick-stemmed weeds and he can only do it in the morning before it gets too hot. Poor guy, there is no option of a chiropractor or massage therapist to help him with his stiff shoulder and kinked neck that he gets as a result. What he had to show me was a snake he had flipped up and killed with his machete. It looks like a small pale garter, and innocuous, but it actually is poisonous enough to put someone in the hospital!

Full time Teaching at Adumasa All Saints Junior High School

Friday, November 19, 2010

JS 2 (grade 8) class

 

It was another busy day at school. Although I only had 3 classes; one being a double period, I ended up teaching 5 classes in a row. It seems that when a teacher is in a meeting or not at school there is no protocol for replacing them or notifying the other teachers, it is just up to the teacher before to just carry on with the class to cover. This has happened this week twice already, today adopting a double period to cover for an absent teacher. It worked out fine as the students really need the extra practice. It would appear that they have the basic written “regurgitative” knowledge that comes from rote memory teaching (fill in the blanks, yes or no answers) yet little practical application transference that comes from real understanding. Here is where it is obvious the detriment of the class sizes and not being able to give individualized learning opportunity and confirmation. I also met with Julianna and Fei after lunch to go over the calendar between now and my departure. It turns out there is an exam week the 3^rd week of December, followed by a week of report cards and evaluations, after which I leave, so I asked that we schedule the rotary project visits after my classes have written their French exams (and I have marked them), so I don’t miss teaching days as there really only are 2 weeks before exams and I would like to work with the kids as long as possible. There is a challenge to balance the teaching end of this visit with the rotary one and it doesn’t seem to matter to Fei or Julianna if I miss classes, but it does to me. Anyway, this feels like it was a good compromise. I also requested that tomorrow be a day without commitments so that I could go through one class’s homework (61 essays!) and properly prepare, ideally, the 2 next weeks of classes and evaluations (including  4-5 science which starts Monday) or else I will end up with the schedule I had last week: long full days and very late nights (there are also visits from children in the evenings and I need to make time for this, not wanting to shut myself in, aware that this too is part of the experience I don’t want to miss. I am exhausted on this Friday evening and it isn’t even 8pm.  Fei is not a teacher so does not realize the work involved, especially with classes of this size and taking them on without any idea of the student abilities, what’s been covered (I borrowed student books to get an idea) or what to expect as far as teaching in such a different environment. it would appear the French teacher left for the UK, without a word, which is unfortunate for the students.

So, I head to bed early to give myself an early start to the day tomorrow (tomorrow afternoon Julianna is showing me how to make a special dish). Sunday is a write-off as far as teaching prep as there is a church anniversary service in Prince’s Presbyterian Church and all the surrounding rural Presbyterian churches attend. I know that Fei is hoping to set up a volunteer teacher program so that this sort of thing can be a regular occurrence in their project villages for teacher support as well as increased exposure. I think this is a terrific idea and definitely have a handbook idea to contribute (How to Prepare for Volunteer Teaching in Southern Ghana). I do find myself wondering how he would feel about teachers who weren’t so open to religion (I am not religious yet go along with the “God bless you”s and church services as part of the experience).  

Fei’s wife has loaned me some of, I assume, her daughter’s dresses to try on for Sunday. One fit and doesn’t look entirely awful on me (a pretty African-style dress on a black woman can, I have discovered, look horrendously garish and out of place on a white woman).  Fei wants to take me to the Kumasi market (the 2^nd largest in all of Africa!) Monday afternoon to pick out some fabric from his wife (she is a fabric vendor there) to have a Ghanaian dress made for me. I have mentioned already that most women here have hand-made dresses (actually cheaper than buying at the store); they’re dress-makers are craftswomen extraordinaire.

Julianna and I were talking about teachers’ salaries in Ghana and I was blown away. Starting salary is 200 cedis (about $150) to about 400. Did I happen to mention that the cost of living here is comparable to that of Canada? The gas here is more expensive however at $1.16-1.18/L. How can people survive on this with such large families like they have (6, 8 kids…).

I also found out that Julianna has her “grandson” living with her, basically a boy from her family’s village on the west side of Ghana who would have had limited education and stimulation there. She brought him back with her the last time she returned. He is in grade 4. That reminds me of the ways of the Inuit, where it is nothing for children to be handed over to another member of the community (often, though, it is within the family) to be raised, where they have more opportunity and/or a healthier living environment for their upbringing.

Did I ever mention the National Service personnel? These are individuals who have completed their college or university schooling. Before they can go into the workforce, it is obligatory that they volunteer for 1 year anywhere in the country (they can do different placements of no less than 3 months each). They are put in areas of public service where workers are most needed. Is this not a terrific idea? Apart from the fact, however, that they get minimally paid and, in many cases, don’t have lodging provided. It really is amazing how these people continue to succeed here faced with such challenges. There are 5 individuals here now, as teaching assistants.

Vocabulary:

Retraction- Hello: Ma akye apparently does not exist and I made it up

Correction: Num bwa achina: See you tomorrow

O cohe: Where are you going?

Knocking on the door : Amoo!  To which the person inside answers “Amee!”

A numre: see you later

The link to my latest pictures and video is: 

http://picasaweb.google.com/kpedicelli/EndOf2ndWeek?feat=directlink

The Sound of Music

Nov. 18, 2010 Thursday (I week since my arrival- feels like a month, it’s been so full)

It has been days since I wrote last; I can’t believe it. I have been so busy with Fei keeping me, as always involved, having more and more visitors (especially children, and my new penpal Abigail), starting to teach and plan lessons (Grades 7-9 French began this week for which I have to start from scratch in prepping; grades 5-6 part-time science next week which will be way easier to plan), getting my cell phone (the first one died that I got last week) and internet sorted out (thank you little modem doomahikee), downloading, (then uploading) my pictures and setting up my blog, and touching base with home enabled by skype (cutting out frequently however) and cell phone rates as low as 14 cents/minute. 

So, where to begin… how about a chronological blow-by-blow? Monday- showed up for the start of the school day at 8am, to get a feel for how the schools are run (the nursery and kindergartens, primary, junior and senior function independently, (with their own schedules and not much staff interaction between) except for all school events held once a term, from what I understand. As I walked by the “kitchen” (a covered extension of the Emmanuel Hall, with a small fire going in the middle of a packed dirt floor, a large firewood pile to the side, and 3 staff sitting on stools peeling yams into a large metal bowl on the ground) and said “Ma cho” to the staff there, who were friendly but a little wary, and introducing myself. It turns out I was mispronouncing “good morning” (maybe why they seemed a little wary?), it is more like “Ma chew” (Twi is a subtle language that takes a tongue-palate flexibility than an adult Anglophone has developed; thank goodness for a background in French and Italian). I stood by the back of the kitchen and had a great view of each of the schools assembling outside their buildings (students in single file; teachers with switches in hand. I videotaped the scene as best I could from there so as to not distract any of the students (they see camera, especially the little ones, and go berserk).  I was blown away by what I saw. Each school has its own song the kids sing, as they briskly march in line by their class groups into their classrooms, singing at the top of their voices the whole way. The primary school has the aid of a jembay drum which sounded awesome while the nursery and kindergarten’s wiggling, twisting and jumping (action songs of course) was awfully cute.

I had the pleasure of sitting in on and helping out with some pre-school and kindergarten classes; that was a riot. The kids are SO KEEN, even in nursery school, wanting so much to learn, entirely focused on working hard, yet with a sense of joy and bubbling humour always just under the surface. I looked across the schoolyard today and saw a group of young primary and kindergarten kids boogying (really getting down) to their own singing, doing their own thing while on recess. The kindergarten (KG 1, that is) teacher is INCREDIBLE with the kids. The teachers are gruffer with the kids here, which took getting used to, but it seems to keep things under control, even 25 Mexican-jumping-bean kindergarteners, eager to run up to the board to write a letter of the alphabet. Vicky is gruff but loves the kids and is so dynamic, having them engaged all the time, flipping from one teaching method to the next with ease (pretty old school, but seemingly effective, especially with large class sizes), throwing in a quick (fabulously energetic and goofy) song or two to get their wiggles out and the back it again, even keeping them engaged, throwing out questions and leading a song as she is filling in her teacher lesson book (don’t get me started on those- they are detailed and required of teachers to fill in each day to be looked over by the headmaster/mistress each Friday; talk about accountability; I was hoping to buy one I liked it so much, thinking this would work so very well at home, knowing that most schools don’t have this sort of teacher accountability/ teaching content and quality feedback loop). I told her (although I don’t think she understood me) that we should be sending Canadian primary school teachers to her for teacher training. The link to class and assembly videos is: http://picasaweb.google.com/kpedicelli/SchoolAssemblyAndClassVideos?feat=directlink

 I taught my first French lesson that day and had an absolute blast! The kids were, again, keen, eager to learn, to participate, to help take my books (I’ll even be walking across the schoolyard and students will come running up, asking if they can help carry something), wipe the chalkboard etc..(there is a far greater responsibility on the hierarchy here with teachers to students and students are expected to run errands and do class tasks (no grumbling, simply a “yes sir” or “yes maam”, even when their teachers order them minus any niceties, not like we’re used to, with a request with a “please” and “thank you”). I was leaving the class (of about 70 students I think), I said “bonjour les amis” and they, all on their own, broke into song “Bonjour les amis”, at the top of their lungs. I was floating out of there! 

Prince has an office at the school so we were able to leave right after my French class and we headed into downtown Kumasi to sort out my connection-to-the outside-world-technology issues. My cell phone had completely stopped working the day before so I had it replaced, although receipts are not given from those roadside tables (with the official red vodaphone umbrella). The service was a little less than helpful (you know me, I went with a list of questions from having played with it over the weekend) so never did sort out why I can’t text internationally or why the camera pictures can’t be emailed (although they fervently told me I can- “no problem”- while showing me something totally unrelated on the phone, exasperated when I continued to harp on a question), but, honestly,  by that time, and the heat, I was wanting to conserve energy and my remaining sanity.

The internet café (no coffee, but where, apparently, you can also get a quick pedicure) is a cool place. It looks like a run-down 70s office, but the staff know their stuff and are helpful, in a quirky, distanced computer nerd (quickly becoming the new cool) sort of way. I had my little modem key installed and working and was on my way. I printed a picture I had taken of the kindergarten class I had promised to give to Vicky the next day.

It turns out that the next day was a holiday- end of Ramadan- seeing as Muslims make up 35% of the population, this holiday is nationwide. It turned out that what was planned for me (to go the Asante museum- the local tribes people are Asante), with the outgoing president of the Rotary here, was not possible, and, quite frankly, I was glad. I needed a day to sleep in, cut and eat fresh fruit from the market, do my wash (all hand washed here), and then, was planning to get my blog going and to get online etc.,  but was visited by a family of children (led by the older sister, Abigail, 11years old). I gave then water (they have to pay for it from the school well outside of school hours), some Halloween candy I brought with me (under the condition that they give me the garbage and NOT throw it on the ground as is the custom), fruit and then taught them how to play hacky sac (I brought a few Canadian Flag hacky sacs for gifts). They loved it. They were wondering what else I had brought, but I had to tell them that I had brought school items not toys or sports’ equipment; they were so wanting a soccer ball. I was basically letting them hang out and goof around on the front lawn when a group of teen girls turned into the driveway. They came to get the guava from the tree (not quite ripe). I approached them, introducing myself and asking their names. It turns out they are grade 9 students at the school and had asked to have a classroom opened for them to do some extra studying! I was enthralled. Are these kids for real?! I commended them on being Ghanaians future women leaders (60% of girls drop out by grade 6). They then asked if they could be penpals with kids from my home. I was all for this of course and took their pictures to go with their names and addresses in my notebook.  

After this Julianna came by with a Ghanaian delicacy- Foo Foo! It is kind of like Italian gnocchis, except instead of a bunch of small potato based nuggets in tomato sauce, this is one cassava-based blob in a spicey tomato and chicken “soup”, you eat with your hands. I liked it but was not crazy about it, (unlike the fried yams and red pepper salsa –yum- or the “red red” I’ve had since -plantain, again, fried, with a spicy warm chunky dip/salsa), especially the chicken which I find hard to stomach, and the kind of goopiness of the fou fou, but the sauce/soup was good. Julianna continues to spoil me and refuses to hear anything about my cooking for myself (I don’t think she believes I am capable, and, I know, she finds me rather entertaining).

Wednesday…..hmmm.. let me think. OH YES! I was whisked away by Fei to attend the opening ceremony for the St.Michael’s Hospital new eye clinic (with a full surgical unit, so can attend to the serious issue in Ghana of blindness related to untreated glaucoma and cataracts). The clinic was built with the help of many donors (I saw at least 5 more white people there among them- wow), one major one being the Kumasi East Rotary Club (of which Fei/Prince is the president and who facilitated my coming here) but really started  by CANSEE, a Cornwall-based NGO , about which I know very little. The woman, Linda, who started it lived in Kumasi for 5 years with her husband who was teaching at the University. She is a nurse and ended up, years later, becoming involved with eye surgeries at the St. Michael’s hospital. It was a long, yet wonderfully organized ceremony which reflected on the terrible situation in developing countries of eye care and it not being a priority, resulting in, if Ghanaian stats are similar, 75% of blindness cases being preventable, and what the societal, and economic impacts are of a person going blind in countries where poverty is rampant and welfare is nonexistent. I have to say I was most profoundly affected after the ceremony by the meeting of Sister Rose (a Canadian nun and doctor, I assume, who has been here for 15 years), at the building just beside the new clinic: the HIV/AIDS treatment clinic and where infants of HIV/Aids victims are housed.  The clinic is run largely on private donations if you can believe that. I can’t even begin to imagine what she experiences in a day and the sadness in that building, having to deal daily, head-on, with the repercussions of this devastating illness.  I thought of the Women’s Kilimanjaro fundrasining climb (now lated for June 2011) being organized in Tremblant to raise funds for just this sort of treatment program and institution. 

Golden Jubilee Eye Center

The ribbon's cut

HIV/Aids Treatment Centre

Fei made a side-excursion for me afterward. We drove to Bosomtwe Lake just up the road (created by an ancient meteorite impact  crater; the only natural lake in Ghana). It was so wonderful to be out of the cluttered chaos of roadside markets and red dirt and to be driving through a rolling vista of green…the road rises up, and above the lake, allowing for a spectacular view, before it descends to the village below at its shore.

Today I taught basically all morning although I thought I was only slated to teach three 35 minute classes (they are very short in the junior school; the primary classes are 1 hour; go figure). The reason I ended up teaching all morning is 1)the first period was actually a double but I didn’t realize; 2) the teacher did not show up to relieve me for the third class (I had fond memories of Sedbergh today…and I thought we were lax on organization). I went to see Julianna but she didn’t seem at all concerned.  So, I stayed on, the grade 7 (JS 1 as they are known here) class has done very little in French and know nothing basically of the language, so I easily used the time, Besides, it allowed me the thrill of leading my own enthusiastically committed choir (a repeat performance from my first, grade 9 class) in Frere Jacques. On the third go through, the windows were overflowing with primary school students leaning in singing along. It was my own “Sound of Music”; it may not have been in the flower-studded meadows of the Alps overlooking Salzburg, but it just as well could have been for the pleasure it gave me. 

I have slowly been giving out the school supplies that I bought to donate to the school. They are being very well received. The educational posters (30 or so) that I bought at Scholastics are a hit considering their classroom walls are bare and visual aids are nonexistent. Vicky’s kindergarten class now has a poster of the alphabet and how to write the letters. Edmund, the primary science teachers, has a slew of science posters and even one for the unit he begins tomorrow. Ben, the senior science and PE teacher was so please by the anatomy and physiology posters which, I have to agree, are pretty incredible. I also had a range (from grades 3-8) of English and Math workbooks from teacher’s college that are so well developed, I couldn’t resist bringing them to give to teachers who don’t have access to online resources or libraries of books to search through for lesson plan or worksheet ideas. The highlighters, regular and coloured pencils, crayons, pens (I need more, I only came with one small pack, following the misinformation of a well intentioned advice provider) and other assorted goodies (Canadian buttons, hacky sacks, animal-shaped bracelets, funky erasers etc..) Julianna has taken to distribute to teachers and to use as reward prizes for academic effort and so on.  I am pleased with the preparations I made to donate, although not much, with a meager budget, but I have realized that when you are working with a situation of bare-essentials, any little extra can make a significant difference.  An example of this is my being able to give a colourful pencil, and help, to a kindergarten boy, who obviously struggles with life and academics daily. He seemed to have problems with writing and number skills, with nonsensical scribbles on is page, his pencil would not sharpen, the lead kept falling out and the rest of the class was finished and waiting on him, while the teacher, impatient, basically told me not to bother with him as he doesn’t understand anything).

OK. I told myself I would go to bed earlier tonight and I have failed at this goal. It is almost midnight and my night guard (really, he is the school custodian, but sleeps just outside my front door), Ben, I am sure, is bothered by the bright ceiling light shining down on him from the entrance room/living room where I sit.

Another exciting day tomorrow awaits. As each day passes I feel more at ease with the people and their language, less estranged and self conscious of my lack of colour, and more comfortable with, even playfully enjoying, the flocking and fawning of children when I walk through the school yard.  I did have students hanging around the house today, just after I had come out of the shower, ending up at my bedroom window, calling for me, to ask if they could write me. It was the first time when I’ve had to be stern and yet it felt important to address boundaries and privacy; it’s not easy being the shiny new toy in town!

Vocabulary (most phonetic)

You’ve done well: wayε  adeε (written in Twi) or good: MO!

Until tomorrow (if God blesses): Wa y jineh

Leave and go: (needed to shoo away primary students from gawking from the classroom door at the abruni teaching the juniors) Free ha ko

Hello: Ma akye (pronounced ma y che); to which you answer: Ya i ja

Goodnight: die y eh

Please: me pow oo cho

Yes: ane

No: debi

You’re welcome (In response to thank you, different from welcoming someone- Akwaaba): I nyebe

The link to the pictures of the past few days are:

http://picasaweb.google.com/kpedicelli/StMichaelSEyeClinicOpeningAndBosomtweLake?feat=directlink

The first weekend in the Ashanti region

Abaa, the day custodian and groundskeeper

Julianna all dressed up for church

Samual

The Pastors-to-be filing by

Sunday, November 14, 2010

What a day! I was totally immersed into a “day in the life” of a local today and had to leave my ego, my issues with organized religion and environmental ethics behind and dove in head first.

I began the day getting myself dressed in one of Julianna’s old dresses, especially made for special occasions. It was a little larges, smelled like “old lady” and looked even more so. The fabric and cut were actually quite beautiful (did you know that women buy their fabric and have their dresses all made? By the looks of the variety and intense styling of these dresses, that dressmakers are artists, designers and seamstresses all rolled into one) but on me, made me look and feel a little dowdy. Anyway, like I said, ego aside, I left for church after I had my breakfast of fresh fruit: orange, banana, grapes and apples (the latter 2 I think may be imported, but not certain) and white “fresh” baked bread (from a bakery in Accra, from which, if you remember, took us 7 hrs to get here) sold from piles on side of the street stalls or off people’s heads along the roadside markets with REAL peanut butter (bought from a woman who sat husking the peanuts, beside the jugs of peanut butter at her stall- talk about local).  For those of you who know me well, you might have stumbled on the word church. I went to church. Not only that but followed by all afternoon at a real “Bible-thumping” evangelical style pastor indoctrination ceremony!

So- church. Emanuel Hall at the school serves as a canteen for the primary and middle school students but also as the local spiritual church. This morning’s service was unbelievable; honestly. I had flashbacks of my years in Montreal, walking by a Baptist Church in NDG, standing outside, listening to the gorgeous uplifted voices, so full of energy, thinking that if I were a formal worship type, this would be the way to go. Today’s service included rock and roll drums, African jembays, crazy dancing and Halleluiahs.. it was such fun. I have to say that going into the 3^rd hour, however (yes, it lasted for almost 3 hours), it I became incredibly hot (sitting there; by this time I had given up joining in on the dancing) and thought I might pass out. I was told later that I would be better placed next week to be under a fan.  I was invited up in front of the congregation and asked where I was from, why I was there and, lastly, if I had any words for the congregation. I said my best “Me daa sen” in Twi (thank you, in their language) which seemed to go over well and that I was honoured to be in Adumasa.  Most of them only understood the part in their language as few of them speak English and many who do need it nice and slow (I have to remember this while I am teaching as you know how good I am at talking slowly). The other aspect of the service that I particularly enjoyed is the participation of the children (middle school age; younger have Sunday School outside during the service), leading hymns, intricate spiritual songs, dancing, drumming (one of the main drummers didn’t look more than 11 years old).

After the service, I quickly helped Julianna make fried yams with red pepper chutney (to die for). In the meantime, the day watchman/school custodian stopped by, we shared lunch with him (although he eats in another room- I know.. I know..) , he then dumped the garbage in the backyard (yes, in the backyard, food stuff, tins, plastic, everything…once it dries, it gets burned. Yesterday we passed by a fire that smoked so much we assumed it had to be tires- sigh) and quickly mopped the floor (I felt strange with this but it’s all part of biting your tongue one has to do in such foreign situations) before we left. I lock the door and keep the key during the day, as well as a key to my bedroom door for extra security.

Julianna and I were joined by 3 older students (Penelope, Samuel and another still to formally to meet) for the drive to Kumasi (10 minutes or so) to a school ground (called The Hour of Faith International School, believe it or not) where the ceremony was to take place. It did not start for another hour at least and then lasted for about 5 hours! At least it had cooled down from the morning! Ghana is good therapy on slowing down and going with the flow. I have yet to see anyone looks at their watch and there seems to be a lot of waiting around, much of what is done seems to take a long time, so you had better be patient.  I have to say, I do feel like I stand out here. I have seen only 4 other white people, 3 backpacking teens having come from the cell phone shop, and a man at the internet café; definitely none but myself at the spiritual church pastor ordaining ceremony! The man (Michael) we were seeing get ordained was a teacher at the Adumasi middle school, so it was 3 of his ex-students who came for the event, along with his ex-boss, Julianna.  I was so touched by how important it seemed to Michael that I came to the ceremony this afternoon after having been at their community service this morning. He was just ordained for the ministry and is returning to school and he tells me that he was so proud of me this morning (the dancing? Going in front of the congregation? Wearing the traditional, however hot and unfashionable, dress?) and was so happy to have me there. He asked for pictures to be taken together as did his family and friends (I was even in the full family- friend shot..me…the Abruni who just met this guy yesterday!).  I asked Julianna about it later.  I told her how significant the experience had been for me, as a reminder of the impact a small gesture can make and how I couldn’t get over how much it seemed to mean to him. She said that it is known that North Americans and Europeans value their time so to come and spend the afternoon being there after all morning at church, meant so much more, not to mention that he was the only pastor out of all 60 or so who was supported by a white woman! Funny or what?!

Being in the ministry is a great honour in Ghana, especially in the south or central region where and traditional and Christian are followed by the majority and Islam is the minority. On this note, it turns out that Michael’s, who was being ordained, family is Muslim yet they were there supporting him while Samuel, one of the senior students who came with us, (to note: these students are so respectful, especially Samual, taking such care of Julianna, picking things up for getting us seats, guiding me through the crowd, asking if they can hold things for us etc..) . Penelope escorted me to the “bathroom” after the ceremony and took her charge very seriously (the bathroom was a little -6ftx 4ft- cement square extension jutting out behind the building, with a metal gate as a door, the toilet was a trough in the cement floor, with a plastic tube in a hole and a tap above for, I gather, rinsing yourself and your splash area? If you had to go number 2, not sure what you would do). Samuel and spoke for a little bit before the end of the ceremony and, unlike Michael; his parents are Muslim and basically disowned him because he does not want to follow their faith. They sound like they are poor anyway, so couldn’t support him is they wanted from the sounds of it. Samuel’s brother is also on his own as a result, both trying to not be a burden on their parents, something most developed country children could not relate to in the slightest. I was so impressed with Samuel from the first day I met him on Friday at the school. He helped Fei get the computer lab set up. He is gentle, self aware and well spoken (he speaks the best English of any of the young people have met thus far). He is trying to survive on his own and complete his education with much difficulty, but is not willing to give up because he has hopes to attend University. He has missed several years of school as a result of the prohibitive situation, but was encouraged by Julianna to come this year and they would figure it out, trusting that the support would be there for him. Free education (not including text books etc.. of course) only goes until grade 9 in Ghana so there is a huge drop in numbers from grades 9 to 10 (called here: level 3 middle school and level 1 senior school respectively). There is also a drop from grade 6 to 7, especially in girls, largely due to the inherent costs of school, even if public/”free”, and other economic and cultural considerations of a Ghanaian family. Samuel is 21 years old in grade 10 which means he has missed several years of school, which is so sad, knowing how much he wants an education and is striving for more than his “lot” in life. Fei and Julianna have been helping him as much as they can, paying some of his schooling (200 cedis- approx. $150) allowing him to stay on the school site, in an extra out-building, so as to not have to incur boarding costs, yet he has to pay for his own food and the remainder of his schooling costs (100 cedis for this term, 300 next: approx. 280$), so he has been allowed to organize the sale of the water (I gather he bottles it and sells it from the market) from the school well to raise his food money. I hope to pay for the remainder of his schooling to Julianna before I leave and to solicit for a sustainability fund for him when I return home, in the hopes that, at the very least, his senior schooling can be paid (300 cedis per term; 600 per year; approx. $450).

It’s odd, but being here on the school property, even though the school buildings are rustic and quite bare, they have electricity, running water with the help of mounted reservoirs and an electric pump at the school to service the out buildings such as the guest house where I am, and a septic system (at least here there is, at the school I will find out tomorrow); I’ve developed a skewed view of the situation for most Ghanaians. Most people in Ghana do not have running water, not electricity and only the hole in the floor set up or a in the backyard as their bathrooms. And to think this is the wealthier section of Ghana. The north must really be a heart-wrenching area to travel throughout. When I drove by the gas station with Julianna today, I saw that the gas was 1.18 cents! Then think about the fact the average income here is not even $2.00 per day!

I still have something to say about environmental conservation and connection however. I still think that an impoverished society would benefit from a better connection with their natural world. There seems to be no understanding about what lies beyond the buildings and streets here. My host doesn’t even seem to be able to tell me anything about the species of animals or insects here…it’s like none exist except up north or in the nature preserves. The lack of understanding of how today’s actions impact tomorrow’s health if astounding. I also don’t see it being an economic issue but rather a cultural one which can be easily addressed with governmental regulations and implementing simple systems such as garbage cans in towns and cities. Apparently there are garbage collectors in town (in fact, Prince/Fei told me that one landfill is harnessing energy from a methane cap in the country), so why does everyone of all ages simply chuck their garbage on the ground? There are no garbage cans! I was struck by the irony of the occasion today and its aftermath- pious gathering talking about god and respect and love for all (I assume, the earth is in there too?) yet, even my host is chucking her candy wrappers (from the candy I gave her- making me feel slightly responsible) on the ground after she pops it in her mouth…the grounds were COVERED with plastic water bags, paper, and all matter of trash after the event. No one so much as batted an eye when lawn mowers passed over the grass and garbage with the sound of incessant popping and whizzing of plastic bags and garbage being pulled up into the blade and spewed out (God (haha) only knows why they started immediately after the ceremony finished, while newly ordained pastors were sitting and celebrating with their attending  family and friends). I was aghast, but knowing this is not my place to do or say anything, but thinking how this has nothing to do with the wealth of the nation but a mindset. It doesn’t matter how rich you are in Ghana, you still chuck your garbage on the ground. I bet even if I asked an educated, wealthy Ghanaian about the plastic island in the Gulf of Mexico (where much of their plastic must end up; God only knows where they think it goes), they would have no idea what I am talking about or why burning their trash (including their millions of cell phone batteries they must go through as, like Quebecers with their cigarettes, no matter the income level, everyone has a cell phone) On the note of smoking however, let me end on a happy note, I have yet to see anyone smoke here. It just isn’t part of their culture and, apparently, the converse is true, smokers will get blasted by others if they are smoking in public, telling them to go away with their cigarette, that they can’t be doing that etc...so MUSIC, DANCING

Vocab:

Yes= ya ee

Bye= bye bye

(people told me more words which I no longer remember and I didn’t have my notebook to write them down)

For pictures of the weekend go to: 

http://picasaweb.google.com/kpedicelli/Ghana1stWeekend?feat=directlink